Another Camino Update

For those of you not familiar with the Camino do Santiago de Compostela, here is a brief description adapted from a publication of the Navarre Provincial government (Spain) provided in English.

Santiago is the Spanish name for Saint James, the brother of John, the sons of Zebedee, who was one of Jesus´12 disciples. Tradition has it that Santiago preached in Hispania before being decapitated in Jerusalem in 44 CE. It is said that his body was taken in a boat to the end of the western world where he was buried. Eight centuries later, about 812, a hermit saw miraculous shining lights (stars) and found a cemetery with the tomb of the apostle, Santiago, in Compostela. Austurion King Alfonso II the Chaste went to Compostela from Cuiedo to visit the tomb and began the tradition of pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. In a few decades, this pilgrimage was as important as the pilgrimage to Rome and Jerusalem. The number of pilgrims peaked in the 12th century. Due to plague, religious divisions, and other factors, the number of pilgrims gradually declined into the late 20th century. A resurgence began in the 1980´s, due to the Jacobian associations, the local authorities, and Pope John Paul II.

From other sources along the Camino, we have learned that the number of pilgrims dwindled into the 200´s in the latter 20th century. Now the number is over 200,000 per year and the pilgrims are from all over the world.

In later updates, I will share more about the experience in general, but I wanted to share some historical background about the Camino. There are many websites that offer more extensive information. And the website of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela posts the count daily of pilgrims who have arrived at the Cathedral, and provides a breakdown by nationality, etc. It is very interesting. [Hilton, can you add the link?]

More on our travels.

Day 17
Saturday July 14 we walked from Castrojeriz to Fromista. This part of Spain is known as the Meseta. It is a plain dotted with mesas, due to erosion. We began the day going up, over, and down, a mesa. The incline was 100 meters in altitude and quite steep, but we did it. The end of the path was along a scenic canal with a lock system. We enjoyed seeing the restored Romanesque church in Fromista that was originally consecrated in 1066. It is apparently one of the best examples of a Romanesque church left in Spain. It´s simple beauty was a relief after the overkill of the Burgos cathedral! At dinner, my brother, Mark, ordered a salad of indeterminate ingredients due to our lack of comprehension of the menu in Spanish. It turned out to be squid and lettuce, among other things, with a dressing made from squid ink. You would think he had died and gone to heaven. He absolutely loved it. It´s a good thing, too, because it was served in a huge bowl, easily an amount that could have been served to all 5 of us, but it was just one order!

Day 18
Sunday July 15. We walked from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes. Part of the track was through the usual fields of wheat. I can see why this part of Spain was known as the bread basket of the Roman Empire. Wheat, wheat, and more wheat! The last part of the way was along a river in the shade. Very scenic. The thistles along this portion were taller than we are!

At the restaurant that evening, we ran into Edna, whom we had walked with on our first days on the Camino. It was great to see her. We all went to a free guitar concert in the church, offered for pilgrims and for the community. It was a delight. The guitarist was from the US. His name was Frank Wallace. He gave a magnificent performance which even the local Spaniards seemed to approve of. After the concert, we went out from a drink with Edna and her walking companion, Sue, from Korea. We stayed at an albergue in a monastery. Very nice. Many times this day I thought about Zoe and Olivia sharing their experience at the UCC National Youth Event in church. I was so sorry to miss that. I hope it was recorded. I look forward to hearing it when I get back.

Day 19
Monday July 16. We did not walk today, for a variety of reasons. We are trying to pay attention to the time and our physical abilities and balance walking with taking in some of the cultural treasures of the route. (Some people walk 30 or more kilometers per day. We average something like 20.) So today we took a taxi to Sahagun and then a train from Sahagun to Leon, a major city on the Camino. The cab ride was arranged for us by Paulo, a pilgrim from Italy whom we met at the bar that is at the bus stop in Carrion. We intended to take the bus, but a ticket was needed and the bus was full. So, Paulo helped us to arrange a taxi. We thought it was going to be 2 taxis, since there were 8 of us, total. But as it turned out, the driver took Paulo and his two friends and Jeff to Sahagun, and then came back for Mark, Malcolm, Sue and I. We were waiting outside the bar for the second to taxi to arrive, which we thought would happen momentarily, but 35 minutes later, the same taxi and driver appeared to make a second run. Mark found this beyond belief. Only one taxi in Carrion, evidently enough for the 2300 residents and the 200,000 + pilgrims!

While we waited for the train (2 and a half hours), we walked around Sahagun. Nothing particularly remarkable. Rather down on its luck. All the churches we walked by were closed. There seemed to be more activity at the train station than anywhere else in town. Julio came by, a local resident, walking his dog. He stopped at the station and had a beer and checked out the pilgrims for the day. He struck up a long conversation with Jeff. He has 8 kids, 4 boys and 4 girls, and a passel of grandchildren. Very friendly. Nice to hear about the lives of the locals.

When we got to Leon, a major city of 130,000, we found an albergue in a convent, and then went out to see the sights. The cathedral is gorgeous with stained glass windows like Chartres in France. Absolutely a gem! And there was even an audio guide in English. The cathedral included a statue of the Virgin Blanco, the white virgin, and a statue of a pregnant Mary. Very interesting. But the windows stole the show.

In Leon, we ran into Sarah, from Ireland, whom we met our very first day and we heard about her adventures on the Camino.

Day 20
Tuesday July 17. Today we walked from Leon to Villar de Mazarife. The first part of the walk was though Leon, city streets and urban life. Then, it was out onto the dirt track o`er hill and dale, through the fields and the scrub, wheat and some sunflowers. We saw an array of solar panels that were out in a field.

I found the walking today a delight in part because I had my backpack transported by a baggage service and did not carry it. My right leg has been bothering me from the hip down. The last day we walked, even with ibuprofen, I was ready to have it amputated, it hurt so much. So, today I decided to travel without my bag to give my leg a rest. It was wonderful. My leg did not hurt at all today. Now I am spoiled and may not want to carry my bag again! The transport service costs 6 € and is well worth it. Sue has used this service and so has Mark for a few days, to give his leg a break, and we had Malcolm´s bag transported when the belt of the pack bothered his infected belly button. The service is great. You call and then leave your bag in the morning with a tag on it with the relevant information, you walk all day, and when you arrive at the appointed destination, your bag is waiting for you. Definitely a bonus!

We are staying at the Albergue de Jesus. Quite a place. It seems like Mexico. The property is walled in. There is a large lawn/courtyard in the front with tables and chairs with umbrellas, facilities for hand washing of laundry (which we do every day), laundry lines, and even a small swimming pool. There are three bunk beds in our room, so the five of us and one other pilgrim will be staying there. There are many other rooms and pilgrims here. The place is very friendly and there is graffiti all over the walls left by pilgrims past. Very interesting to read! When we went to the store in town, we passed the church which has what appears to be a silo attached. We wonder what that is all about. Who knows? We continuously find Spain to be enigmatic and mysterious!

Tomorrow it is over 30 kilometers to Astorga, our targeted destination. That will be our longest walking day so far.

We will send more news when we can. Blessings to all!