Category: Kim’s Blog

I was talking with someone recently about the 9/11 attacks and the killing of Osama bin Laden. The person mentioned that she thought she might feel differently about those events if she knew someone personally who was killed on 9/11. I have been thinking about that comment.

How does direct personal involvement influence our thinking, our understanding, our feelings, our values, our behavior? And, in this presidential election season we can add, our vote? It’s fine to have theoretical beliefs, values, and morals. But it is in everyday life that these become real. Ideally, our moral commitments and our behaviors are completely consistent. We are fully integrated as human beings. But, as I said, this is the ideal. In reality, we tend to be a mix of contradictions and inconsistencies.

One of the things that I think helps bring together our theoretical morals, values, and commitments and our actual behaivor is personal involvement and connection. I thought I knew some things about homelessness and that I was applying my Christian values to this issue, and then we had some homeless people come and stay at the church for 3 months. Through that direct personal connection I learned a lot more about homelessness and the people who are homeless. Through that experience, I was led to revise some of my views, especially about practical measures for reducing homelessness.

In the time of Christian origins, in the years of Jesus’ life and the decades following his crucifixion, the communities that formed around his teachings became reknowned for their broad diversity. In a society that was highly stratified by class, the Christian communities welcomed everyone and all were on equal footing. These communities were extremely diverse. People who would normally never have contact as equals were worshiping and serving, eating and praying, side by side. These uncommonly diverse communities were the context for learning, growing, and living in the spirit of Christ. Through personal experience, theoretical faith and values became concrete words and deeds. People became more integrated and whole.

Today this vision can inpsire the church to actively embrace diversity because it is through our personal experience with the “other” that we become integrated and whole. Who is the “other” in our context? Maybe someone of a different educational level or economic level. Maybe someone of a different sexual orientation or gender identity. Maybe it’s bridging the urban/rural divide; small town and big city. Maybe the differences involve ethnicity or life experience. Maybe it’s getting to know someone who is Muslim or atheist.

Our faith invites us to become whole through direct encounter with others who are different in some way. It is through this interpersonal engagement that we become more Christlike. When we embrace this vision of diverse people coming together maybe we will no longer have to fear another version of 9/11.

Day 21
July 18
We walked from Mazarife to Asotrga. This was our longest day of walking. Not only that, it was also the hottest. I was commenting on the heat and Jeff said, “Just think Florida.” I said it is not this hot in Florida. To confirm my suspicions, I got out my handy time and temperature device and we looked at the temp. 109.3 F! So much for heat like Florida! Finally, Astorga, our destination was in sight. There was a train track to cross, and a fancy switch back ramp up and down had been constructed for walkers and bikers, making the way across about 10 times as long as it needed to be to get across the track. Then as we came into town, we knew that the place we were staying was to the right, but the route took us to the left, again, for switch backs up a hill. Not welcome in the blazing heat. On the way through the city, we stopped to buy a chocolate bar since Astorga is famous for its chocolate. The shop was air conditioned. Yeah! After arriving at the albergue and recuperating, we toured the Bishops House designed by Gaudi and the cathedral. It was lovely.

Day 22
July 19
We walked from Astorga to Rabanal del Camino. The albergue at Rabanal was staffed by a volunteer couple from the US whom Sue and I had met at the gathering of the American Pilgrims in Winter Park. As we waited in line to sign in at the albergue, there were signs posted about bed bugs, which are a problem on the Camino. Malcolm had gotten some several days before and had asked me if they were from bed bugs. I didn’t know. At Rabanal, after seeing the signs about the bed bugs, we asked about Malcolm’s bites. Another one of the hospitalero volunteers was an older woman from Great Britain. She looked at the bites and confirmed they were from bed bugs. She then squirreled Malcolm away for “fumigation.” She turned to Malcolm and said, “Come with me into the cupboard.” It was very funny. Malcolm was given some shorts and a tee shirt, and his clothing and backpack were taken away for treatment. The backpack was emptied and all the clothes was washed in hot water. This was welcome, since it had become evident from the smell of Malcolm and his pack, that he was not doing his laundry each day, as the rest of us do, so he got his laundry done for him. The backpack was put in a large dark colored plastic bag and put out in the sun. Apparently the heat kills the bedbugs, larvae, etc. So, Malcolm left the next day “de-loused” with a pack full of clean clothes!

Day 23
July 20
We walked from Rabanal to Riego de Ambros which was about 20 kilometers. Today we traversed the highest point on the Camino, Cruz de Ferro. There is a large cross there at the top of the hill. People leave stones at the foot of the cross to symbolize leaving their burdens behind. It was cold and windy at the Cruz, about 53 degrees. Passing the highest point felt like a milestone. The trail was through “chaparral” to quote Sue. I would call it scrub. Bushes and wildflowers and grasses. Some small oak and pine. There was one albergue in the town and it was run by the same guy who ran the only restaurant in town. The town was charming.

Day 24
July 21
We walked from Riego de Ambrose to Fuente Cacabelos. We went through the large town of Ponferrada and on through several smaller towns. It was hot and we walked on and on and on. When we got to Cacabelos, it turned out that the albergue was on the far side of town. The town was far larger than expected. I walked and walked looking for the sign for the albergue. (Often you can see from one end of town to the other, but not Cacabelos!) Tired and hot, it was on and on through the town. Finally, I stopped to ask someone where the albergue was. From her answer in Spanish, I caught mention of the church and two bridges. Sure enough, I walked on, past the church, over one bridge, then another, and there on the outskirts of town, was the albergue. It was in the yard of a church, built in a u shape, around the church. There were separate rooms, with room for two in each, and no bunk beds. One of the few nights we did not sleep in bunk beds! This town is famous for wine, and Mark wanted to tour a winery, so we did and the tour was given in English and it was very interesting. Then we ate at a restaurant featuring Mexican food, which was really bad!

Day 25
July 22
We took a bus from Cacabelos to Villafranca Del Bierzo, about 10k, and then we resumed walking, to Vega de Valcarce. Jeff, Sue, and I walked along a river, through small towns, and it was very scenic. Mark and Malcolm took another route that involved several substantial hills, the hardest walking of the Camino, in their opinion. The most up and down, with beautiful views and vistas. We all met at the end of the day at a private Brazilian albergue. The food was delicious. One of the guests in our room had severe snoring issues. Malcolm woke me up in the middle of the night suggesting that I pursue getting the man medical attention!

Day 26
July 23
We walked from Vega de Valcarce to O’Cebreiro. Lots of uphill walking. O’Cebreiro is a tourist town at the top of a mountain with beautiful views. There is a Celtic influence there. The church incorporates the earliest surviving buildings on the Camino. This church was served by a priest who started the system of marking the Camino with yellow arrows. He died in 1989 and is buried in the church. The yellow arrows are our guide day in and day out. There are signs and cement markers with yellow arrows and the scallop shell, but these are augmented by yellow arrows painted on buildings, on the asphalt, on posts, really all over. And these arrows tell you where to go. Just follow the yellow arrows, day after day, kilometer after kilometer, all across northern Spain. That is our guide! When you are not sure where to go, you look around, and eventually, you will see a yellow arrow showing you the way, thanks to the priest, Don Elias Valina Sampedro, of O’Cebreiro.

Day 27
July 24
We walked from O’Cebreiro to Triacastela. The walking was downhill. We started high, above the clouds and could see the mists below. It was lovely. Tricastela was a good sized town. There was a woman at the albergue who was doing the Camino with a walker. It was hard to imagine. Mark had fish soup and tongue for dinner which he found delectable.

Here’s a description of a typical day for us. We get up between 5 and 6 am. We typically dress and pack by the light of the headlamp, since others in the room are often still sleeping. Some people are up and leaving at 4 or 4:30 a.m. We usually eat food that we have purchased the day before – yogurt, fruit, cereal, bread and cheese, cereal bars, coffee, depending on what was available the day before. We leave the albergue as the daylight appears. Mark and Malcolm walk together. Jeff, Sue and I go at our own pace, sometimes two of us together, sometimes separately, sometimes walking with others we have met along the way. Malcolm and Mark arrive at the albergue first and try to make arrangements for all 5 of us, though at some the people have to be there and it is first come, first served. When we get to the albergue, we recuperate. Eat something. Shower. Do laundry by hand, at the sinks provided, with bar soap, and hang it out to dry on laundry lines. Malcolm naps every afternoon. Jeff usually does, too. Sue and Kim nap and rest some days. We check out the town and the church. Look for a store to get food for the next day for breakfast, lunch, snacks, but it all has to be carried, so we don’t buy much, and we shop often. Sometimes there is no store, and we make due with what we have. Sue and Mark are dedicated about writing in the journals most afternoons. Jeff writes postcards. We wake Malcolm up and go to dinner about 7 each day. Over dinner we discuss our plan for the next day: How far will we go? Where will we stop for the night? Which albergue will we stay at? After dinner, it is back to the albergue and getting ready for bed. Lights are out about 10.

About the albergues, they are basically what we might think of as youth hostels. Some are privately run, others are municipal. Generally, there are bunk beds. There is anywhere from 4 to 50 people in a room. The bathrooms are shared, sometimes men and women together, sometimes separate facilities for men and women. There are showers with hot water. There are facilities for hand washing of laundry. Sometimes there are kitchens and refrigerators. Sometimes there is internet access that is coin operated. The albergues are locked at a certain time – usually 10 or 10:30. Everyone has to be out by 8 in the morning. The cost per night varies from donation to 10 Euros, but the cost is generally about 5 euros. While an albergue is basically a hostel, only Camino pilgrims are permitted to stay at albergues. To sign in, you are asked for your “credential.” This is a cardboard folder that has your name, etc. on it, and that you have stamped each place you stay, and sometimes at other churches and sites passes during the day. The stamps on the credential validate that you are a pilgrim walking the Camino, and then you can stay at the albergue, where they stamp your credential when you sign in and pay. We found the albergues clean and basically comfortable, having what was needed.

As you walk the Camino, you get to know some of the people who are walking with you, so we pretty much always knew other people staying at the albergues and there was a sense of always being among friends.

Day 28
July 25
Today we walked from Triacastla to Barbadelo. Barbadelo is just past Sarria. Sarria is just over 100 kilometers from Santiago de Compostela, our destination. To qualify as a pilgrim and receive a compostela, a certificate validating that you have completed the Camino, you must walk at least 100 kilometers. So, Sarria is a common starting point for those doing the 100k Camino. After Sarria, we noticed many people each day that we had not seen before. This was another hot day for walking. As we headed into Barbadelo, it was over 103 degrees on my thermometer. July 25 is the feast day for St. James, the patron Saint of Spain, so there are many festivals to celebrate. In Barbadelo, as we found to be common in Spain, the celebration took place after 10 p.m., which makes it difficult to participate when the albergue is locked at 10. So, we did not celebrate with the local people.

Day 29
July 26
We walked from Barbadelo to Portomarin. This is a community that is now up on a hill, but used to be along side a river. Then the river was turned into a reservoir, and the town was moved up the hill. The church was dismantled, the stone building blocks numbered, and it was reassembled at the new town site. You can still see the numbers on the building stones. We entered the town over a long, high bridge, and then up a steep flight of stairs. We are getting near the end of the Camino, and have a schedule worked out until the end, so are ready to make plans for returning from Santiago to Barcelona, where we fly back to the US. There was internet at the albergue at Portomarin, so we bought our plane tickets from Santiago to Barcelona. This was the best option over train and bus. We booked through Ryanair, on line, in Spanish, which was quite a challenge, but we did it! Then we were told that we would have to print out our boarding passes or be charged 10 euros each for having them printed at the airport. We haven’t seen a printer since we left!

Day 30
July 27
We walked from Portomarin to Palas De Rei. The walk was gently sloping and scenic. Palas De Rei was another fairly sizable town. The albergue had a bar and restaurant. And there was internet access. And the computers had printers. The first we have seen on the Camino,, just when we need one to print out the boarding passes. So, we printed our boarding passes, and it seemed miraculous! The guys has some kind of stewed knuckle for dinner which they found to be delectable. Grateful for our appreciation, the restaurant added liqueur to our dessert with a flourish. Very nice! The Olympics start tonight and we try to figure out how to watch the opening ceremonies. The bar at the albergue is closed, so no TV there, and the albergue is locked at 10 and the ceremonies start at 10:30, so we miss seeing the opening ceremonies. This is disappointing.

Day 31
July 28
We walked from Palas De Rei to Ribadiso. Much of the walking is on woodland pathways. Our ending point for the day turns out to be a very small town. Two albergues. One restaurant. No store. There is a TV at the restaurant, so we are able to watch the Olympics. Jeff eats octopus, a local specialty. We can’t believe how close we are to the end. The beginning was enchanting. The middle seemed endless. The ending seems to be coming at breakneck speed!

Day 32
July 29
We walk from Ribadiso to Arca Do Pino
We are staying mainly at private albergues now because we can make reservations and be sure of all staying together, even though we arrive at different times. It is also busier, the closer we get to Santiago.
Today’s walk is largely though forest and woods. There are many eucalyptus trees, which are raised for use making paper and furniture. The smell is delightful. We have been told that this last section of the Camino is flat. No inclines. Well, whoever said that is not from Florida and has a different definition of flat. We are still going up and down throughout the day on relatively gentle hills and inclines, but it is up and down nonetheless.
Arca Do Pino is another sizable town. We stay at an albergue that is fairly new. There is a soda machine in the main lounge. Most of the soda vending machines that we have seen in Spain have Coke, etc., but also have beer. So you can get a beer out of the soda vending machine. At this albergue, there is a big sign on the vending machine, “Have Beer.” Apparently, there is no beer in this machine, but the algergue has been if you ask at the desk. The sign really means, “We have beer.” But, as we have found again and again in Spain, something is lost in translation!
Our plan is to walk within 5 k of Santiago tomorrow and stay at a huge albergue just outside of the city, then to get up and walk into the city arriving early in the morning. So, only two more days of walking! WOW. That is hard to believe.

Day 33
July 30
We walk from Arca Do Pino through much forested area. There are many more people on the Camino, but it still does not seem crowded by any means. I still go for up to an hour without encountering others. There are many groups of young people and scouts heading to the end. We meet up at Monte del Gozo, the huge albergue that is just 5 k from the outskirts of Santiago. This albergue is really a village. There is a church, a snack stand, a huge sculpture in honor of Pope John Paul II who visited. The albergue has 500 beds. The places we have stayed have accommodated 20, 30, maybe even 100 people, but certainly nothing like 500! After resting and having some food, we discuss our plan to stay here for the night and head to Santiago in the morning. It is only about 1:00 p.m. so we decide to make our way to Santiago today. The five of us walk together the last 5 k into Santiago. We arrive at the plaza outside of the Cathedral. We relish the moment, take pictures. There is a sense of disbelief. Then we head to the Pilgrim office to get our compostelas, the certificates that verify that we have, actually, walked the Camino.
Then we headed to our hotel to dump our bags and refresh ourselves. Then we head back to the cathedral to see the inside, which is spectacular. We see the alleged tomb of St. James and we head up behind the altar to touch the statue of St. James. Then we walk around and check out the town. It is charming. We see people we know from the Way. We begin our transition from pilgrims to tourists. We met a man on the Camino who was from Santiago. We asked him what we should do there. He said, “See the cathedral, eat seafood, and walk the streets of the old town.” So, that’s what we do.

We spend Tuesday in Santiago attending the pilgrim mass at noon and seeing the town. Then on Wednesday, we take the bus to Finesterre, the western most point in Europe, once referred to as the end of the world. Thursday we fly to Barcelona for a week of sightseeing and recuperation. August 9 we fly back to Florida ending a truly amazing journey!

For those of you not familiar with the Camino do Santiago de Compostela, here is a brief description adapted from a publication of the Navarre Provincial government (Spain) provided in English.

Santiago is the Spanish name for Saint James, the brother of John, the sons of Zebedee, who was one of Jesus´12 disciples. Tradition has it that Santiago preached in Hispania before being decapitated in Jerusalem in 44 CE. It is said that his body was taken in a boat to the end of the western world where he was buried. Eight centuries later, about 812, a hermit saw miraculous shining lights (stars) and found a cemetery with the tomb of the apostle, Santiago, in Compostela. Austurion King Alfonso II the Chaste went to Compostela from Cuiedo to visit the tomb and began the tradition of pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. In a few decades, this pilgrimage was as important as the pilgrimage to Rome and Jerusalem. The number of pilgrims peaked in the 12th century. Due to plague, religious divisions, and other factors, the number of pilgrims gradually declined into the late 20th century. A resurgence began in the 1980´s, due to the Jacobian associations, the local authorities, and Pope John Paul II.

From other sources along the Camino, we have learned that the number of pilgrims dwindled into the 200´s in the latter 20th century. Now the number is over 200,000 per year and the pilgrims are from all over the world.

In later updates, I will share more about the experience in general, but I wanted to share some historical background about the Camino. There are many websites that offer more extensive information. And the website of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela posts the count daily of pilgrims who have arrived at the Cathedral, and provides a breakdown by nationality, etc. It is very interesting. [Hilton, can you add the link?]

More on our travels.

Day 17
Saturday July 14 we walked from Castrojeriz to Fromista. This part of Spain is known as the Meseta. It is a plain dotted with mesas, due to erosion. We began the day going up, over, and down, a mesa. The incline was 100 meters in altitude and quite steep, but we did it. The end of the path was along a scenic canal with a lock system. We enjoyed seeing the restored Romanesque church in Fromista that was originally consecrated in 1066. It is apparently one of the best examples of a Romanesque church left in Spain. It´s simple beauty was a relief after the overkill of the Burgos cathedral! At dinner, my brother, Mark, ordered a salad of indeterminate ingredients due to our lack of comprehension of the menu in Spanish. It turned out to be squid and lettuce, among other things, with a dressing made from squid ink. You would think he had died and gone to heaven. He absolutely loved it. It´s a good thing, too, because it was served in a huge bowl, easily an amount that could have been served to all 5 of us, but it was just one order!

Day 18
Sunday July 15. We walked from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes. Part of the track was through the usual fields of wheat. I can see why this part of Spain was known as the bread basket of the Roman Empire. Wheat, wheat, and more wheat! The last part of the way was along a river in the shade. Very scenic. The thistles along this portion were taller than we are!

At the restaurant that evening, we ran into Edna, whom we had walked with on our first days on the Camino. It was great to see her. We all went to a free guitar concert in the church, offered for pilgrims and for the community. It was a delight. The guitarist was from the US. His name was Frank Wallace. He gave a magnificent performance which even the local Spaniards seemed to approve of. After the concert, we went out from a drink with Edna and her walking companion, Sue, from Korea. We stayed at an albergue in a monastery. Very nice. Many times this day I thought about Zoe and Olivia sharing their experience at the UCC National Youth Event in church. I was so sorry to miss that. I hope it was recorded. I look forward to hearing it when I get back.

Day 19
Monday July 16. We did not walk today, for a variety of reasons. We are trying to pay attention to the time and our physical abilities and balance walking with taking in some of the cultural treasures of the route. (Some people walk 30 or more kilometers per day. We average something like 20.) So today we took a taxi to Sahagun and then a train from Sahagun to Leon, a major city on the Camino. The cab ride was arranged for us by Paulo, a pilgrim from Italy whom we met at the bar that is at the bus stop in Carrion. We intended to take the bus, but a ticket was needed and the bus was full. So, Paulo helped us to arrange a taxi. We thought it was going to be 2 taxis, since there were 8 of us, total. But as it turned out, the driver took Paulo and his two friends and Jeff to Sahagun, and then came back for Mark, Malcolm, Sue and I. We were waiting outside the bar for the second to taxi to arrive, which we thought would happen momentarily, but 35 minutes later, the same taxi and driver appeared to make a second run. Mark found this beyond belief. Only one taxi in Carrion, evidently enough for the 2300 residents and the 200,000 + pilgrims!

While we waited for the train (2 and a half hours), we walked around Sahagun. Nothing particularly remarkable. Rather down on its luck. All the churches we walked by were closed. There seemed to be more activity at the train station than anywhere else in town. Julio came by, a local resident, walking his dog. He stopped at the station and had a beer and checked out the pilgrims for the day. He struck up a long conversation with Jeff. He has 8 kids, 4 boys and 4 girls, and a passel of grandchildren. Very friendly. Nice to hear about the lives of the locals.

When we got to Leon, a major city of 130,000, we found an albergue in a convent, and then went out to see the sights. The cathedral is gorgeous with stained glass windows like Chartres in France. Absolutely a gem! And there was even an audio guide in English. The cathedral included a statue of the Virgin Blanco, the white virgin, and a statue of a pregnant Mary. Very interesting. But the windows stole the show.

In Leon, we ran into Sarah, from Ireland, whom we met our very first day and we heard about her adventures on the Camino.

Day 20
Tuesday July 17. Today we walked from Leon to Villar de Mazarife. The first part of the walk was though Leon, city streets and urban life. Then, it was out onto the dirt track o`er hill and dale, through the fields and the scrub, wheat and some sunflowers. We saw an array of solar panels that were out in a field.

I found the walking today a delight in part because I had my backpack transported by a baggage service and did not carry it. My right leg has been bothering me from the hip down. The last day we walked, even with ibuprofen, I was ready to have it amputated, it hurt so much. So, today I decided to travel without my bag to give my leg a rest. It was wonderful. My leg did not hurt at all today. Now I am spoiled and may not want to carry my bag again! The transport service costs 6 € and is well worth it. Sue has used this service and so has Mark for a few days, to give his leg a break, and we had Malcolm´s bag transported when the belt of the pack bothered his infected belly button. The service is great. You call and then leave your bag in the morning with a tag on it with the relevant information, you walk all day, and when you arrive at the appointed destination, your bag is waiting for you. Definitely a bonus!

We are staying at the Albergue de Jesus. Quite a place. It seems like Mexico. The property is walled in. There is a large lawn/courtyard in the front with tables and chairs with umbrellas, facilities for hand washing of laundry (which we do every day), laundry lines, and even a small swimming pool. There are three bunk beds in our room, so the five of us and one other pilgrim will be staying there. There are many other rooms and pilgrims here. The place is very friendly and there is graffiti all over the walls left by pilgrims past. Very interesting to read! When we went to the store in town, we passed the church which has what appears to be a silo attached. We wonder what that is all about. Who knows? We continuously find Spain to be enigmatic and mysterious!

Tomorrow it is over 30 kilometers to Astorga, our targeted destination. That will be our longest walking day so far.

We will send more news when we can. Blessings to all!

Day 11

We walked from Santo Domingo de Calzada to Belorado. “We” is Sue, Mark and Jeff. Kim and Malcolm took the bus since Malcolm was still not up to walking with his abscess and infection in his belly button. It took about 20 minutes on the bus to go the distance that the walkers covered in about 6 + hours!

As Malcolm and I waited 2 hours for the bus, we saw Michelle from St. Pete again at the bus depot. Crazy to run into someone from home, again. We took a short walk around the town only to realize that we left our walking poles at the albergue that we had stayed at the night before. They close and lock the albergues usually at 8 am to clean for the group arriving in the afternoon. We went back and knocked and knocked on the door. Finally someone came who had been mopping the floors and he let us in and let us get our poles. Whew!
The albergue that we stayed in at Belorado had a swimming pool. A great relief after all the walking.

Day 12

We walked from Belorado to Villafranca Montes de Oca. Malcolm was still not up to walking so he and Jeff took the bus. We walked through one small, sad town, only to come to another, that was worse, and the third that was really bad. Many villages seem virtually deserted. One Irish girl that we talked to who is walking the Camino suggested that you would have to be born into that small village environment to be able to adapt to it. If you came from anywhere else, you would not be able to adapt to the remote, isolated lifestyle. Malcolm has suggested that you would have to have a LOT of hobbies!

We stayed at an albergue owned by a man who has walked the Camino, and actually also walked to Rome, and Jerusalem, and over 60,000 kilometers as a pilgrim. He was busy working on his hotel and albergue and he gave us a notebook of newspaper articles in a host of languages about his many kilometers of pilgrimage. Amazing!

Day 13

We walked from Villefranca (these Villafranca towns are places where French people who walked the Camino decided to settle on their way back) to Atapuerca. At this albergue, we all stayed in one small room.

Atapuerca is a UNESCO World Heritage Site because in caves nearby, the oldest human remains in Europe have been found. They date back over 900,000 years. There is an active archeological site, and a visitors center, as well as tours of the site.

We booked a tour for the next morning.

Day 14

We got up and prepared to leave the albergue with plans to head to the archeological visitors center for the tour of the actual archeological site where the oldest human remains in Europe have been found. We planned to take the bus to Burgos following the tour, but there is only one bus a day at 8:30 a.m. Then we met Fernando, who was also staying at the same albergue, going on the archeological tour, and heading to Burgos. He told us that we could take a bus from the archeological center into Burgos. When we got to the center, sure enough, we were told that after the tour to the site, we could stay on the bus and it would take us to Burgos. The archeological bus goes to the Museum of Human Evolution in Burgos that is associated with the site in Atapuerca. So, with the help of Fernando, an art teacher in Avilla, Spain, we were able to see the archeological site and proceed to Burgos.

The site was great. The tour was led by an archeology professor. Unfortunately for us, it was all in Spanish. There was an audio visual presentation, and we saw the archeologists digging through the dirt, and there were interpretive exhibits about the life style of the early humans, as well as information about the find and the exploration process. It was very interesting.

Then, the bus took us to Burgos, less than half an hour away, a major city in the region. When we got off the bus, we made our way to a small albergue, then headed to the cathedral, a must see in Burgos. We spent about 2 hours there and were grateful for the audioguides in English. It is an amazing church. One unbelievable chapel after another. Varying styles of art and architecture. My favorite part of the cathedral was the amazing clear glass star in the ceiling in the middle of the nave. Spectacular!

While I was saturated with Atapuerca and the cathedral, Jeff had the energy to go to the Museum of Human Evolution. He said it was amazing, tracing biological evolution as well as immigration and more.

Day 15

We all walked today. Malcolm finally back up to speed. His abscess has drained and is healing, the pain gone, and his strength returning. He had been hoping that the infection would lead to his being sent home, but no such luck. (He misses his friends, the beach, his friends, St. Pete, his friends, his home, his friends, and all things American. . .) We walked from Burgos to Hornillos del Camino, about 21 kilometers. We went through several towns and wheat fields, wheat fields, wheat fields! The walking was exposed with no shade. When we got to Hornillos, we headed to the albergue and got signed in. Jeff and I arrived later than Sue and Mark and Malcolm, and they worked on first come, first served, so Jeff and I were assigned to a different room. No problem. We went out to eat, and then back to the albergue to play spades, which Malcolm is teaching us.

The albergue faced a small town square, where there were benches. About 6 older people from the town sat on the benches and watched the pilgrims. These crazy people from all over the world who are walking hundreds of miles to Santiago, right through their village of some 70 residents, if that! The world comes to them, and they are taking it in!

Day 16

Today we walked about 20 k again, from Hornillos to Castrojewiz. Wheat fields and wind farms all day. It is a beautiful testimony to the harmony of humanity and nature. It was sunny and windy, so the temperature was pleasant. In fact, it was so windy our laundry blew off the line and we had to go chasing it on the terrace and the sidewalk below! Our guide books tells us that we are 460k from Santiago, or 285 miles. We might actually make it!

Here´s an update on the last week or so. Sorry that it is so long
between emails. Our days are busy, what with getting up with the sun,
preparing for the day, walking, walking, walking, arriving at our
destination for the day, recovering, and taking care of business –
like laundry, food, blisters, etc. Then it´s bed time so that we can
be ready to do it all again the next day!

Day 3
We walked from Roncesvalles to Zubiri. The end of the hike was a VERY
steep downhill grade on loose rock scree. It was awful at the end of
a long day. We arrived tired and aching. Malcolm said his feet hurt
more than they ever have in his life! Zubiri was a bleak town. Few
places to eat. A temperamental ATM. We ate at the snack bar at the
sports complex, which was actually quite good. We also had breakfast
there. Again, very good, and the only game in town. The hostel was
large and busy. Bathrooms, showers, and laundry in a separate
building. 28 people sleeping in each room, on bunk beds, which are
standard fare every night. We were too tired to care much about the
comforts of the accommodations and slept well only to get up early and
do it all again.

Day 4
We walked from Zubiri to Pamplona. It was a fantastic hike. Gorgeous
woods along a river, gentle rolling hills, a path along a river,
through charming towns, and some dirt roads through the waving fields
of wheat. Jeff and I walked most of the day with Gino, a very nice
young man from Manchester, GB. He just closed a catering business and
decided to walk the Camino to give him time to figure out what to do
next. We hear this a lot from people. They are walking the Camino at
a time of transition, and are trying to figure out what to do next.
In Pamplona, we stayed at the pension that we had stayed at the week
before. Malcolm wanted a room with a TV so that we could be sure to
watch the final game of the Euro Cup Soccer tournament -Spain against
Italy. We ended up watching the game in the main square on a large
screen in the middle of Pamplona. I think every teen ager in town was
there! And, as you may know, Spain won! It was quite a celebration.
We ate dinner at the Hemingway Pizza Kabob Restaurant, which turned
out to serve neither pizza or kabobs, but wonderful pita wraps. Quite
delicious!

Day 5
We were up and out on the late side. We had a variety of things to
get done in Pamplona, and we headed out separately – Mark and Malcolm
together, Sue, and Kim and Jeff together. While Jeff and I were
looking for a phone store (a long story) we were off the Camino trail.
Four different people stopped us and gave us directions back to the
right path. Very helpful. It was a beautiful walk up to El Perdon,
where the statue-sculpture of the pilgrims shares the hillside with a
ridge of windmills. (This sculpture is featured in the movie ¨The
Way.¨) There are many windmills lining the hills and mountains of
Spain. And we find them quite beautiful. It was windy at the top of
the hill. And there was a small homemade shrine to the Virgin of
Guadalupe, the patron saint of Mexico. That is the first sign we
have seen of her here in Spain. Getting to the top of the hill means,
of course, an ensuing descent. So, it was down, down, down.
This is the first day that we noticed many people biking the Camino.
I don´t see how they do it on the rocky, dirt and gravel paths, and
given the extreme inclines and descents, yet bike it, they do.
Jeff and I brought up the rear today arriving at the lovely albergue
in Uterga as Sue, Mark, and Malcolm were in the middle of dinner. We
knew where they were because Malcolm had made an arrow with our zebra
striped duct tape on the sidewalk in front of the albergue. Our sign!

Day 6
We walked from Uterga to Lorca. It was hard walking. Very long, and
there was a very steep, long uphill grade at the end, when you are
exhausted. It didn´t help that the temperature was 102! The bright
spot was a huge map of the world made out of used tires on a hill side
that was done by a school in honor of world environment day. We were
really spent when we arrived at the albergue. We were somewhat
revived when we headed to dinner in the albergue. Four other guests
came to dinner, too. We were at a table for 6, so another pilgrim
joined us. Turns out she lives in St. Pete on 4th Street. Crazy. We
have seen her several other times since. After dinner, Malcolm, who
said this was his worst day, revived himself by skyping and
facebooking with his friends on the free computer. The rest of us
played UNO on the patio.

Day 7
We walked from Lorca to Villamejor de Monjardin. It was long and
slow. (What else is new?) But the walk was lovely. More wheat
fields and vineyards. We stayed at a Dutch albergue. They said grace
at dinner, and after dinner we went to a lovely Jesus Meditation.
Very relaxing and peaceful. Today, Malcolm let us know that his
bellybutton was getting much worse. It was infected, a condition he
has had before, but it had progressed and become quite painful. So it
was time to deal with that problem.

Day 8
We took the bus to the nearest town of some size, Los Arcos, where
there is a medical clinic. We got off the bus and asked two older men
standing near by where the clinic was. One told us, and the other
walked us there, just 2 blocks, but a bit confusing. Very kind of
him. The people in the clinic were very kind and helpful. After
giving the introductory information, we were sent around the corner to
the bank to pay 88 Euros. Then we went back to the clinic, and
Malcolm was seen by the doctor, who spoke NO English. He examined
Malcolm. Took his temperature and blood pressure. Normal. Then they
shaved his bellybutton area and put on cream and a large bandage.
They gave us more bandaging and tape, and 2 creams. We were sent to
the Farmacia for an oral antibiotic and ibuprofen for the pain.
Since we had yet to walk that day, we decided to just take the bus to
the next town and proceed from there the next day. So we spent the
night in Logrono.

Day 9
Today, we walked from Logrono to Ventosa. We walked means that Mark,
Jeff and Sue walked. Malcolm was not up to walking, so he and I took
the bus to Ventosa. The walkers left the albergue at 6:30 am.
Malcolm slept in until 8. Then we walked to the bus station in
Logrono and got tickets to Ventosa for 10:00. The clerk selling the
tickets made sure to explain to us that the bus did not go all the way
to Ventosa. It stopped about 1 km away from town and we would have to
walk into the town. 1 km – No sweat! The bus left at 10:04 and we
were at a cafe in Ventosa at 10:30. The bus ride was less than 25
minutes. My brother, our fastest walker, did not arrive until almost
12 noon. So it took just short of 6 hours to walk what the bus
covered in less that 25 minutes! That gives you some perspective!
Mark arrived and we sat at the cafe until Sue and Jeff arrived in the
early afternoon. The albergue, the only one in town, did not open
until 2, so we hung out until then. The albergue was very nice. We
went to dinner at the only restaurant in town. On the way back to the
albergue, we passed the town square where the people were celebrating
the Festival of the White Virgin. There was a stage and a dj, and
there were several dances performed by groups of children, shades of
the many dance recitals we attended when Angela took dance lessons!
It seemed as if everyone in town was there. There were all ages.
There was free wine served, and the townspeople made sure to include
us. They were very welcoming. At a certain time, the music stopped
and all the people headed to the church. It was packed. They sang
and the women came forward and brought flowers up to place near a doll
of the Virgin Mary. When that was done, everyone headed back to the
square and partied until 4:00 a.m. Our albergue was locked at 10:00
p.m. (a common practice) so we were in by 10. This evening, the woman
who runs the albergue gave Mark some kindly advice about how he was
walking the Camino so that he would learn that he does not need to
control everything, to learn to trust, to not worry about what he can´t
control, and to know that things will still be ok. Malcolm and I
witnessed this encounter and we had to keep ourselves from laughing
out loud and shouting Amen! It was great! Very funny. Mark took it
all very well, controlled, as usual!

Day 10
This was our longest walking day. We walked just over 30 km. It was
mostly gently sloping terrain through the wheat fields and vineyards
and a few towns. Jeff said he felt like we were walking across Iowa!
We stopped in Santo Domingo de Calzada. Got to the albergue,
showered, did laundry, found a food store for some provisions for
tomorrow. Then we headed to dinner. Malcolm walked today and seemed
fine, but by dinner, he said he felt sick. He has a fever and his
bellybutton still hurts. He said he feels like he has the flu. It´s
awful to be sick away from home. And here he is sick in a hostel,
sleeping in a room with almost 30 other people, in bunk beds. So,
tomorrow, I will take the bus with Malcolm again, and we will stay in
more of a hotel, we think. It will be a larger town, so we can get
medical care again, if needed. We all feel very sorry for Malcolm.
This isn´t his dream trip under the best of conditions, and sick, he
just wants to come home. I don´t blame him. We will miss being at
church tomorrow and hearing Angela preach. I will try to send another
update in a few days.